Resignation, Mt Arapiles

Resignation, Mt Arapiles

It's estimated there are 3000 climbing routes up Mt Arapiles, in western Victoria, so it can be mighty hard to choose. Resignation is a three-star, multipitch route at a cracking grade 15, with great exposure, a wonderful belay ledge and a surprisingly committing little overhang.

The glorious belay ledge halfway up, on Resignation, Mt Arapiles

 Why call such a great climb 'Resignation? Is it that you need to "resign yourself" to just going for the committing moves up the overhang? Or is it that this climb is so unreal that you'll immediately write out your resignation letter, and move to Natimuk to become a full-time climber?
For those few climbers not in the know, the mecca of Australian climbing, renowned worldwide, is a place called Mt Arapiles in far western Victoria. Yes, it's even more renowned than Taipan Wall in the Grampians. The reasons are varied, as it was explained to me recently when I was there writing a story for OUTBACK magazine. Firstly, there are some 3000 routes, secondly, they're all within a fairly short walk of the campground, thirdly, the rock is gorgeously pleasant quartzitic sandstone, so bullet-hard, but friendly on the fingers, fourthly, it provides lots of nooks and crannies to place protective gear (not too many bolts here) and most importantly, its easy climbs are absolute classics. As one climber said to me "Elsewhere in the world the easy climbs are boring... but not here!"
And so we come to Resignation. In the guidebook it's quite reasonably recorded as a four-pitch climb, but we did it in two, using a 60m rope. The guidebook has this wonderful description too:

"The third pitch is quite sensational – it climbs an exposed, run-out and overhanging wall that feels more like grade 23."

There isn't much to add to the excellent guidebook description, although the end of our first pitch (the guidebook's second pitch) is theoretically 13, but requires a bit of thought and courage near the end to get to the superb belay ledge. The ledge sticks right out over the cliff, and is almost big enough to put out a picnic rug if you are so inclined.

Small overhang section, Resignation, Mt Arapiles

The overhang bit is just a few moves past the great belay ledge. You traverse right, try finding a few spots to place some gear, then "take a deep breath ... and motor up the overhanging wall". There aren't many spots to place gear up the steep wall until the top of the little section.
The last part of the climb drops back to a grade 12, although there's still a couple of moves to keep you on your toes.
Then the descent is great fun too, with a scrambling traverse, a squeeze through Ali Babas Cave and then either down holding the chains, or abseiling off (particularly with the 60m rope, which just reaches the bottom).

Descent route

Arapiles is about to boom again at Easter, with the annual Goat Fest, but there are so many classic climbs at Arap to choose from. But this was certainly a great morning out for me. 
www.kensbigbackyard.com.au 

8 of the best waterholes

8 of the best waterholes

It's not too cold yet to go and find some of these rippers of waterholes to plunge in, swim in or even skinny-dip in if you're game. 

Probably my favourite swimming hole in NSW, in Bungonia Gorge

I was recently asked by a reader of my blogs to come up with a list of great swimming holes within a couple of hours' drive of Sydney. There are so many out there, so I don't pretend this is an extensive list - just some of my favourites. Please feel free to add your own via the comments at the bottom. But also, some of the best waterholes are those that you stumble upon, and actually aren't that keen to divulge to others - they're part of a whole bush experience.
Still, this little list should provide some fun to those partial to a soak in the wilds. Be warned that some waterholes are probably quite polluted immediately after small amounts of rain.

1. Kariong Falls, Central Coast

Kariong Falls, Central Coast

Water cascades into a deep pool with a sandy bank. The pool is hemmed in on two sides by a large sandstone overhang, with a red hand stencil high on the wall. You can walk to Kariong Falls via the delightful little Wondabyne Railway Station or Woy Woy Bay. Track notes are in my book, Top Walks in NSW.

2. Gibberagong Waterholes, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park

A delightful little surprise in a fairly untrodden part of this national park, Gibberagong Waterholes are high up Cockle Creek, and a fairly easy walk in from the end of Grosvenor Street in North Wahroonga.  Last time I went there they were so cold I could only stay in for seconds, so be prepared to warm up on the walk out.

3. Upper Gledhill Falls, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park

Over the past decade, I've had so many great experiences at this waterhole, as it is the waterhole commonly visited by campers at Camp Kedron. One favourite memory was about 100 leaders and campers crammed in there after a massive food fight that we'd had at camp. Found at the sharp bend in the road a couple of hundred metres up McCarrs Creek Road from The Duckhole, it has room for a couple of cars to park beside the road, or others can park at The Duckhole and walk up. Jumping in off the cliffs is not advised as the bottom has several large boulders that can't be seen. If you have the time, walk down the creek, past The Duckhole, to the much more impressive Lower Gledhill Falls.

4. Jellybean Pool, Blue Mountains National Park

Just a five-minute walk from the car, this is one of the best, easily accessible swimming holes in the Blue Mountains. Of course, that can make it really popular on hot weekends. It's right near the Glenbrook entrance to Blue Mountains National Park, and suitable for little kids and families.

5. Empress Falls, Blue Mountains National Park

Canyoners reach this deep, big waterhole, by abseiling 30 m down Empress Falls, which is truly a great experience and highly recommended. But walkers can also get there simply by walking down the popular Valley of the Waters walk from Conservation Hut. It is a steep walk down, and when you walk back up you'll wish you were back in the water. There are some good spots to jump in from (keep an eye out for ropes and abseilers from above), and the bottom is sandy.

6. Figure 8 pools, Royal National Park

The delightful Figure 8 pools, Royal National Park

The only saltwater pools that I've included, these are just so delightful that they are worthy of inclusion. Only accessible about two hours either side of low tide, they are found on the rock platform two headlands south of Burning Palms Beach, which means a bit of a hike however you come in. They're not so much swimming holes as beautiful plunge pools, although it could be interesting to stay a while with a mask. A wonderful treasure that most people miss in this very popular park.

7. Bungonia Gorge, Bungonia National Park

I think my absolute favourite swimming hole in NSW is in this gorge, but there is no direct track there.  Track notes again are in my book Top Walks in NSW. Best route is probably via the steep and slippery White Track to the bottom of the gorge, then follow the gorge upstream until you find it. There are a few lovely waterholes on the way, but one is just superb and you'll probably only share it with a few thirsty wallabies. Give yourself plenty of time to walk out.

8. Wollondilly River Station, Southern Highlands

Gorgeous emerald waterhole at Wollondilly River Station

At one end of the main camping area is this little emerald-coloured waterhole. It's a bit rocky on the feet, and can be freezing, but it is truly a beautiful little spot for a dip.

Five top Aussie autumn walks

Five top Aussie autumn walks 

I adore all the seasons for different reasons, but autumn has a special place in my sense of wellbeing, with its cool nights and variable days, and its fungi, fruits and golden nothofagus. It's a great time to get out walking across the country.

It's a great time to get out there, exploring. Ken Eastwood on Mt Jagungal walk.

Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness... oh if only I'd appreciated Keats' poetry when I was forced to study it at school. Of course the change in the Aussie bush at autumn isn't nearly as dramatic as it is in much of the world. I remember living for almost two years in New England, USA, where the change is so spectacularly dramatic as leaves turn golden and vibrant reds, oranges and pinks.
Most of the time in Australia we don't get those colours, except where there is an abundance of introduced trees and a cooler climate. In the Blue Mountains, NSW, try the beautiful Mt Wilson area, or the botanic gardens at Mt Tomah.
Still, it's a cracking great season to be out and about. The ocean water is still relatively warm, so you can have a swim , but the days are generally cooler than through summer, and the nights begin to become wonderfully refreshing (making it better for camping). Also, in the Top End and the Kimberley, it's the end of the Wet season, so many walking areas begin to open up again, and it's one of the best times to be up there, with the bold colours, full waterholes and rejuvenated vegetation.
There are boundless brilliant walks, but here are five to get you thinking.

1. Dove Lake, Cradle Mountain–Lake St Clair NP, Tas.

One of Australia's few plant species that makes a dramatic change over autumn is the nothofagus, with its tiny leaves turning gold and red, making places such as the hills around Dove Lake come alive in colour. Walks here vary from relatively easy strolls of an hour or so up to multi day adventures along the Overland Track. Highly recommended is the full day walk up Cradle Mountain, and then along to Twisted Lakes.

2. Mt Jagungal, Mt Kosciuszko National Park, NSW

Mt Jagungal ... moody and starkly beautiful.

A ripper at anytime of year (including the middle of winter when it is covered in snow), this two-day hike takes you across open alpine plains, across rivers, through alpine forest, and up way above the treeline to the top of this iconic mountain that gives you an epic 360-degree view. There are plenty of ways up and down it, but in my book, Top Walks in NSW, I describe one of the easiest routes, staying in the excellent huts along the way. It's still a trek, and a great adventure.

3. Piccaninny Creek, Purnululu National Park, WA

The Wet is over and the colours in this extraordinary park are absolutely spectacular. The brightly striped orange and black Bungle Bungle formations have masses of bright yellow wattle at their base, the spinifex is surprisingly bright green, the sky a vivid blue, and the waterholes reflect it all. Most of the walks in Purnululu National Park are short walks of an hour or so, but you are free to explore this gorge for as many days as you like. I recommend at least two nights to get a feel of the remoteness and the exceptional beauty of this World Heritage listed treasure.

4. Mt Grenfell Historic Site, NSW

Mt Grenfell Historic Site ... hundreds of individual art works

As weather cools down, inland areas once again become more pleasant to travel to, particularly for those not used to the sometimes harsh conditions. Mt Grenfell Historic Site, about 70km out of Cobar, is one of the exceptional cultural treasures in the state – probably the densest area of Aboriginal art. Three separate galleries have layer upon layer of art works, and you could spend hours just contemplating the history and ambience of this special spot. There is a choice of a short, 15-minute walk from the car park, or a 5km loop.  

5. Walk over some politicians, ACT

There are few places in the world where you can tromp all over the roof of the federal parliament, and Australia's parliament has lush lawns in which to do so. And let's face it, there's something pleasurable about walking over the heads of politicians. Canberra itself is a walkers' paradise in autumn, with plenty of great options: around the lake, the Australian National Botanic Gardens or in the vast wild areas of Namadgi National Park, which may even get snow on its higher peaks.

Go on... you know you want to. www.kensbigbackyard.com.au

New parents' guide to Sydney

New parent's guide to Sydney

Landing on my desk this week was a copy of a new parent's guide to Sydney that I co-wrote with four others. It's cheeky, fun, has some great ideas, and is only $15 on Amazon.

Just released: this parent's guide to Sydney, called Mini Me.

I co-wrote this fun little guidebook with some other parents who write, including two people who I've worked with in the past, Kayte Nunn, former editor of Holidays with Kids, and the illustrious Liz Ginis, who I worked with for many years at Australian Geographic.

Our brief was to find and describe great Sydney things to do with kids, particularly kids aged 0-5, but our target market was supposedly a hip, inner-city crowd. Our style was to be edgy, cheeky and even a little bit naughty. As a result, the book is a fun read and doesn't take itself too seriously - a necessary quality when you become a parent.

It'd make a great little mother's day present for newish mums in Sydney. Find out more info here.

Below is one of my entries, for a wonderful bookstore up at Beecroft.

The Children’s Bookshop (and Capella Bookshop) 

I was watching her face pretty carefully when I dropped the F-bomb. After all, the middle-aged book-wormy woman in The Children’s Bookshop had been really helpful, seeming to know the plot and main characters of almost every book in this friendly store, which has bright picture books beside the counter and gaily coloured lanterns hanging from the ceiling, and I didn’t want to darken the mood of such a bright, child-friendly space, but I really wanted to know: “Do you have Go the f**k to sleep? by Adam Mansbach?”

“Oh, I think we’re currently out of stock,” she said with a smile. “But I can order it in for you. It’s very funny – have you seen Noni Hazlehurst reading it on Youtube?”

The death of the humble book has been predicted for over a decade, and we’ve seen many of the big book store chains turn over their last page, but thankfully little gems like this store still exist. Unadulterated by too many other distractions (like DVDs and games), this shop is just full of great books, and staff who can actually read. There’s no cappuccino machine (but several cafes in the street), and the store isn’t big enough to have couches, but there are stools, chairs and wonderful bits of carpet for you and the kids to sit and flick through a stack of books. Helpfully set out in age groups from the toddlers at the front, past a long teenage fantasy section, to the small, but surprisingly good, adult section at the back, it’s a joy to visit for any book lover.

As a bonus, they have a regular program of inviting children’s book authors and artists who speak (free to attend) and run workshops (usually a small fee) in a room upstairs. And there’s pre-school story time twice a week. But I doubt they'll be reading Go the f**k to sleep.

6 Hannah St, Beecroft

(02) 9481 8811

www.thechildrensbookshop.com.au

Open Mon–Fri 9am–5.30pm, Sat 9am–3pm, Sunday 10am–2pm

www.thechildrensbookshop.com.au

5 top places to see koalas in the wild

5 top places to see koalas in the wild

Although decreasing in number throughout much of their range, koalas can still be found quite easily in some areas.

Koala in the Otway Ranges, near Bimbi Park

I've just come back from an extraordinary research trip to the Otways in Victoria with Earthwatch, where koalas are breeding prolifically. In fact, too prolifically – they're actually eating themselves out of house and home. I'll be doing a story on that soon.
The good news is that koalas are actually therefore really easy to see in the area. For a native animal that is popular across the world, and yet spends most of its life (18–22 hours a day) sleeping, it is rare to see them so easily.
Here are some of the places I recommend to see them in the wild (remember, koalas naturally don't occur in the west of the country).

Bimbi Park, Otway Ranges, Vic

This cute little caravan park and camping area is currently right in the thick of perhaps the biggest hotspot of koalas in the country. Many of the trees in the park have been protected by iron bands in order to save them, which means koalas can't climb them, but there are literally dozens and dozens of koalas in the trees all around the park. Bimbi Park is not far from the Cape Otway lighthouse, and some gorgeous Victorian coastline (off the Great Ocean Road).

Kangaroo Island, SA

Koala, Kangaroo Island, at dusk

Koalas were introduced here in the 1920s and have loved this wildlife paradise. They're quite common, but hop on any of the excellent wildlife tours on the island and they'll make sure you get up close to a few.

Magnetic Island, Qld

Right near the northern tip of their range, koalas are not necessarily prolific on Magnetic Island, but the island is small and there are enough to make sightings pretty regular. Plus, as a bonus, the gum trees are generally pretty short on the island, so you don't have to peering way up a huge blue gum to see a little ball of fur. Just ask around for the best places to see them, and keep your eyes open.

Narrandera Koala Reserve, NSW

Koalas were introduced into the reserve here in the early 1970s, and have since bred up and expanded their range. In a brilliant natural ad campaign, one was even photographed clinging to the town sign.

French Island, Vic

Perhaps the real ancestral "home" of many of today's koalas, French Island, near Melbourne, has so many koalas that it has been the source of many of the other populations. (Koalas have been translocated to many of the other areas.) You can camp or stay on a farm there, and ride bikes around to see the koalas and myriad other wildlife.

I've spied them in plenty of other places around the traps too, but am keen to hear about your favourite spots too.
www.kensbigbackyard.com.au

Brilliant summer walk

Brilliant summer walk

This cracker of a walk has everything: a secluded swimming beach, wildflowers, rainforest, Aboriginal sites, and one of the best views in Sydney.

View from West Head, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park

I have lots of favourite walks which I describe in Top Walks in NSW, and this is one of my absolute favourite summer walks, but it's also good in spring and warm autumn days. It's around one of the most northern points in Sydney, West Head, which on a clear day really does have one of the best views in this city of vistas. 
The circuit walk is only 4km long, but you'll want to allow at least two hours, and ideally three or four to get some time at the gorgeous little Resolute Beach. It does have a few stairs, so not suited to everyone.
Park at the Resolute picnic area (toilets), 12km past the entrance into Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, not long before you the road finishes at West Head.

Head straight down the fire trail at the back of the picnic area towards Resolute Beach, ignoring the turn left to West Head or Red Hands Cave (you’ll see them on the way back). In spring, this is a lovely wildflower garden.

Wildflowers and butterflies abound in spring.

After a few hundred metres, there are clearly signposted Aboriginal carvings on the left of the track, including a male figure, fish and eels, but in the middle of the day in summer they are quite hard to see. From the back of the rock platform, take the small, marked, Headland Track. It can be overgrown and scratchy, but it’s worth getting off the fire trail for 200 m. When you rejoin the fire trail, turn left and wander through an attractive forest of scribbly gums, bloodwoods, stringybark, banksias and bottlebrush.

Soon a steep track heads down to the left to “Resolute”, passing a lovely cliff line with a large Aboriginal rock shelter. Continue on the steep descent past cabbage palms until the track hits a T-junction. Turn left to Resolute (the other way goes around the headland to Mackerel Beach), and then the track forks again.
Go down to Resolute Beach, which is just a delightful place to swim and while away a few hours. On weekdays you'll probably have it to yourself. Even on the weekends when West Head is a constant stream of coaches and cars, few people bother to walk down to this little gem. Unfortunately there's little to no shade.
After cooling off, it’s back up 100 stairs, then continuing on to the right, through lovely cool rainforest gullies and along the coast. I recommend not going down to West Head Beach (not as nice as Resolute) but continuing up to West Head Lookout for those sensational 270° views over Lion Island to the Central Coast, out to Barrenjoey Lighthouse and along the whole Palm Beach isthmus.

When you are ready to move on, find the little track that heads left (when facing uphill) marked “Red Hands Cave”. It’s only 850m back to the car at this stage, and pretty flat. Listen out for the sound of cracking nuts high in the sheoak trees and you may be lucky to spy glossy black-cockatoos, with their fire-engine-red tails.

Just 250m from the end, you’ll find Red Hands Cave, with some of the only accessible Aboriginal ochre art in Sydney. Some has faded, but one hand in particular is still very obvious. It’s a peaceful and contemplative spot to spend a few minutes before heading the last couple of hundred metres back to the car.
www.kensbigbackyard.com.au

This walk and 62 others are detailed in my book, Top Walks in NSW

  

Empress Canyon

Empress Canyon

A great fun, short canyon, not far from Sydney

Empress Canyon

Whenever I pop up to the Blue Mountains for a morning or a day, so many Sydneysiders I chat to seem surprised. "All that way just for a morning?" I don't know where that perception of huge distance has come from. The freeway is quick and easy outside peak hours, and I can get to this canyon in Wentworth Falls, from my house in the centre of Sydney, in less than 1.5 hours. Heck people, this is a World Heritage Area right on our doorstep.
Empress Canyon is one of the most popular canyons for commercial groups. It is short, easily accessible, lots of fun, relatively easy and safe, and finishes with a cracker of an abseil: 30m down a gorgeous waterfall (Empress Falls) into a deep pool at the bottom. What's better (for commercial groups anyway) is that there is nearly always an audience on the walking track beside the waterfall, providing a great promotional opportunity.
As anyone who has my book Top Walks in NSW knows, one of the walks I will recommend to almost anyone new to the area is the gorgeous National Pass walk, which comes down Wentworth Falls, half way along the cliffline underneath a series of waterfalls, then up Valley of the Waters past Empress Falls. If some of your party isn't into abseiling down waterfalls, I recommend you go and do this walk, and then wait for them down the bottom of Empress Falls.

Upper and lower section

Steep track to the upper section of Empress Canyon

For some reason, this canyon is usually described without the "upper section". Yet it's such a short canyon I think you'd be crazy not to do the upper section as well – partly because it adds a really fun 4m jump into a sandy pool.
From the Conservation Hut (Fletcher St, Wentworth Falls) car park (toilets and cafe), take the Nature Track from near the toilets for 20–30 minutes. Just keep following signs to Edinburgh Castle Rock. It provides a nice view. Keep following the track for another 4 minutes down underneath Castle Rock, and you'll see a definite secondary track heading off to the right, steeply downhill. At the moment it is marked with a pole marker saying "8". This steep track is quite slippery and sloshy as you head down through a hanging swamp. Stick to the track despite the mud to reduce impact on the swamp.

Canyon

When you reach the creek, turn left and wade and splash your way along for 15 minutes or so, taking care on the slippery rocks. Keep your eyes out for yabbies, big and small. They're not dangerous, although the big ones will take a nasty nip at you if you try to pick them up for a photo or a closer look.
When you get to a climb down (small rope currently attached), put on wetsuits. (A large party may have to backtrack a little to find enough room to do the wetsuit wriggle.) Don't jump this first drop, but you can lower yourself most of the way with the rope and then slide in carefully.
The canyon then has a mix of small pools, walks, and gentle drops. Be careful on nearly every drop, as you would be unwise to jump most of them the full height, because of underlying rocks and logs. All too soon you'll get to the lovely 4m jump into a sandy pool. You can slide it, but it's a great fun jump.
Immediately after you'll hit the track again, but keep following the creek along to the sign-in register (with a tiny diversion to check out a lovely waterfall coming in from the left). This is the "lower" section. It is quite similar, with climb-downs, slides, walks, wades and short swims. If water levels are suitable, one lovely bit involves climbing through a hole through which the water is pouring. There are some dark sections, although none completely light-free. After a large chamber with log jams, you'll slide down into a pool that is just before the final abseil. If you know there are large numbers of people ahead in two groups or more, you may be wise to just wait a little.

Abseil

Top of the 30m abseil

Thankfully (because of the possible build up of people), there are two very secure abseil chains. A 60m rope will reach the water with about 2m to spare, so don't try a single 50m. You will probably have to take whichever of the abseil chains is available, but the right abseil is the most fun (directly under the power of the water) if your group is experienced. Water pounds on your noggin, and the sunshine after the canyon makes the water droplets sparkle as they fly around you. The start has a tricky overhang, so just lean right out, letting out rope.
After the abseil, the pool at the bottom is deep enough to encourage you to climb up on the side up to about 6m or so and jump in a few times. Great fun.
Walking out is short and steep: straight up the populated track, following the signs to Conservation Hut.

Jump in at the bottom of Empress Falls

Tips

Do the upper and lower section.
Wear wetsuits: you'll be more comfortable
www.kensbigbackyard.com.au