Three Capes Track Review

Three Capes Track Review

Tasman Island from The Blade, Cape Pillar

After becoming one of the first journos to walk the new $25.3 million Three Capes Track in Tasmania, I've been asked by quite a few people what it's like, and whether it would suit them. My full story and photographs will appear in an issue of OUTBACK magazine later this year, so I can't give everything away, but here's a few pointers (and what I really thought of it) if you're trying to decide whether to do it.

What is it?

Nine years ago the Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife Service started working on what would become their biggest development project ever. Looking for a new, iconic, multi-day walk to help fill the demand created by the Overland Track, they looked towards the Tasman Peninsula's incredible natural wonders: and not least among them, Australia's highest sea cliffs, the 300m high dolerite columns along Cape Pillar.
But, the vision was bigger than just natural wonders. They wanted an experience that could appeal to a new market of people who aren't usually bushwalkers, so they combined art, information and a comfy night's sleep, with a walk through the Tassie bush. As well as building three incredible public huts, with everything laid on (except food, which you bring yourself), they reworked a few existing rough tracks and developed the Three Capes Track. The full plan is that it will be 82km and visit five public huts, but for now it's 46km, and a cracking great 46km it is, done over four days.

View over Port Arthur, from near the first night's hut.

How much is it?

Controversially, it costs $500 to do the walk (staying in the public huts). But that includes an excellent boat tour at the beginning, an excellent handbook as a guide, all the huts and as much rainwater as you can drink, a two-year pass to the Port Arthur Historic Sites and a ride back from Fortescue Bay at the end.

Why should I do it?

• Standing atop the highest sea cliffs in Australia looking out at Tasman Island is an extraordinary privilege.
• The track is worth seeing on its own. Costing about $12 million alone, it is a work of art.
• The huts truly are the best public huts in Australia. There are deck chairs to sit in, cooking facilities, board games and a library, as well as heating, lights and yes, comfy mattresses.
• Distances are very manageable (longest day is 17km) and you don't have to carry a full pack. 

  

  The beautiful Fortescue Bay, where the walk finishes

Why shouldn't I do it?

• It isn't the best walk in Tassie. If you are a keen bushwalker and haven't explored many of Tassie's other wonders yet, I'd suggest you do them first – the Overland Track, Walls of Jerusalem, Hartz Mountains, Freycinet, the South West.
• While the walk has some amazing natural highlights, there are long stretches in thick banksia heath or relatively uninteresting forest.
• It's halfway between a wilderness walk that you do on your own, and a luxury experience. You might be better to choose which of those options you really want, and go for that, rather than a middle of the road option.

Can I do the walk without paying the $500 and using the huts?

Yes. There are two ways I'd suggest doing this. One is to do Cape Pillar and Cape Huay (the main highlights) as day walks from Fortescue Bay. You won't have to carry a pack and you'll still get to visit these wonderful places. You are allowed to fill up water bottles at the public huts, but not use the facilities.
You can also choose to walk it, carrying a full pack (with tent, cooking stove etc), organising your own transport etc. Tas Parks and Wildlife make it clear that they want all such campers to camp at one official camp site, called Wughalee Falls, that has a pit toilet, tent platforms and tank water. They want you to camp there to preserve the rest of the area, but you're actually allowed to camp almost anywhere, except within about 500m of the huts (signs indicate this). I'd particularly recommend sites at Perdition Ponds and near the end of Cape Pillar, where you could wake up and see the first rays of the day striking The Blade. If you choose to camp somewhere other than Wughalee Falls, please practice minimal impact camping.

What's the verdict?

This is a beautiful new walk in a part of Tasmania that is definitely worth exploring. The walk, and the stay in the huts, definitely suits those who aren't hardened walkers but want an achievable, fun adventure. It is not the best walk in Tassie, but it does have some amazing highlights, and it is designed more as a whole experience in the bush, rather than just a bush walk. And because you're carrying a relatively light pack, you can bring extra goodies such as wine, steak, and several types of cheese (well, I did anyway).
Two things that may help you get the most out of it: the huts take a maximum of 48 people. If it was fully booked, all the 8-bedroom dorms and 4-bedroom dorms will be full, and that would give it a very different experience, particularly if you're not a people person. If you have a group of 4 or 8, of course you could have your own room, but if you are a pair or a single, you are likely to be asked to share. However, the walk is only going to be fully booked on some occasions. On our walk, in early February, we only had 14 walkers, and I actually got a four-bed room to myself. I would recommend holding off booking until you can determine how many have booked.
Similarly, we had beautiful blue-sky days averaging 27 degrees - most un-Tasmanian. To do the walk in driving rain would not be nearly as enjoyable, as there is nowhere sheltered on the track to stop and have lunch etc. None of the marked rest stops have any shelter. So again, if you can, I'd delay booking until you can get an idea of the weather.
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