5 little-known Royal treasures

5 little-known Royal treasures

Royal National Park, on the southern outskirts of Sydney, is one of the oldest national parks in the world, and despite some 2 million visitors a year, has some little-known sights and sites. 

Flowers and beaches, two of the Royal National Park's well-known wonders.

Royal National Park is a 160sq.km area of bushland, with heathland, swamps, cliffs, beaches, woodland, rainforest and some beautiful old-fashioned parkland. It has rivers and waterfalls, native flowers galore, and a rich and varied bird and reptile life. There are more tracks than you can poke a walking stick at, including one of the country's best overnight walks (or a long day walk), the 27km Coast Track. There are well-known fishing spots, diving, snorkelling, camping and mountain biking and cycling opportunities, all within an hour of the centre of Sydney.
But there are a few lesser-known treasures, particular favourites of mine, and I'm certainly hoping to discover a few more in 2014.

1. Figure 8 Pools

Figure 8 pools, Royal National Park

This sublime ocean-side rock shelf, only accessible two hours either side of low tide, has a gorgeous handful of opal- and jade-coloured rock pools that are deep enough and big enough to bathe in. They are all stunning, but the most unusual is the perfect Figure 8 Pool, big enough to hold a small party of people. Some people even bring masks to have a look around the pools, which are encrusted with anemones, weeds and occasionally have fish and even seadragons inside.
Where: Two headlands south of Burning Palms Beach, minimum of an hour's walk from a car.
Perfect for: A hot, sunny day

2. Uloola Falls

Uloola Falls

There is a walk-in campsite near these pretty little falls, but I think the best way to see them is on the 15km loop walk from Heathcote Station. In it you travel through a huge range of terrain, wade across rivers, and have what feels like an incredible adventure, plus have the option of a real coffee and a sit-down meal at Audley half way through. For full walking notes, see my book (available as an E-book) Top Walks in NSW.
Where: Near the centre of the park
Perfect for: A rainy winter's day

3. Aboriginal engravings, Marley Head

Completely unmarked and, like so many Aboriginal sites, expunged from modern maps, the engravings at Marley Head make a delightful excursion for those with sharp eyes. Heading south on the Coast Track, you begin to head downhill towards Marley Beach. There are some glorious sea cliffs here, great for whale-watching, and around the sandstone platform are a surprising number of Aboriginal engravings. Like most engravings, they are easier to view when the sun is not directly overhead, and the lower angle of the winter sun is often best.
Where: 3km due south of Bundeena, in the north-east of the park
Perfect for: A winter walk

4. Lady Carrington Drive

Okay, this historic 10km track is pretty well-known, as it leaves from the heart of the picnic area at Audley. It follows the Hacking River's upper reaches, and is relatively shady, flat and leafy, with some lovely forest. It's lesser-known feature, however, is that it remains one of the best mid-distance, easy mountain-bike tracks in the country, with the 20km return trip perfect for people starting to venture into the sport.
Where: Audley to McKell Ave
Perfect for: Any time of year

5. Cliffs north of Wattamolla

Thin shelfs of sandstone, like diving boards

Perhaps the most popular of all the spots in the park, Wattamolla buzzes on weekends and public holidays, with picnickers, swimmers, anglers and rabble-rousers. Very few seem to head out on the walking tracks though, and those who head north on the Coast Track often turn around before it reaches the coast again. Pity. It's only a few kilometres walk north of Wattamolla to some of the most breathtaking sea cliffs near Sydney. You stand on the edge and look across to see how undercut and thin the rock layer is, then realise that you are standing on the same completely undercut cliff, with very little holding you above the ocean crashing below. It is one of my favourite spots around Sydney, particularly on a wild and windy day.
Where: Approx 3km walk north of Wattamolla
Perfect for: A windy but clear day

Note: Full walk notes for the Coast Track are also available in Top Walks in NSW

www.kensbigbackyard.com.au     

The greenest holiday possible?

The greenest holiday possible?

Forget ecotours, camping and voluntouring: perhaps the most environmentally friendly holiday you could have this year is staring you in the face.

You don't have to go to the back of Bourke for a relaxing, green holiday break.

I've just come back from a fabulous weekend away with my wife. We hired bikes, we swam in waves and lay on beaches, we ate out, we walked, we talked, we laughed. And we didn't even leave Sydney.
In the past few years, one of the buzz words to emerge in tourism has been the "staycation".  In its purest form, it means being a tourist in your home town, while staying in your own home. You turn off the phone, and tell your friends you are away. You not only save on accommodation and transport costs, but you finally get to do all the things you've never done. For example, in Sydney you might finally do the Bridge Climb, or eat out somewhere special, or catch a ferry to Manly, or go to Penrith Whitewater Stadium.
A worthy variation on the pure "staycation" though, particularly in a large city, is to go and stay somewhere else for a couple of days, still in your home town. In our case, we went to Manly, and had a brilliant couple of days on the beach.

Why is this such a "green" holiday?

Packing our cars crammed full of camping gear or towing a trailer, and driving several hours away, is one of the most destructive micro-things we continue to do to our planet. Don't get me wrong, I'm a huge supporter of holidays, and believe that tourism needs to be supported (read the introduction to my book, Australia's Best Eco-Friendly Holidays, for more clarification on this point). But burning increasingly precious fossil fuel in order to move large boxes of metal around isn't ideal. Neither is regularly hopping on a plane to go "somewhere else".
By choosing to holiday in your home town, especially if you choose to travel by public transport (in our case, a glorious ferry ride to Manly after a night out in the city), you cut that environmental travel footprint down to almost nothing. You also get the chance to slow down a bit and enjoy what is directly in front of you, while supporting local businesses and people.
If you're still deciding where to take a holiday this Christmas, consider the merits of a "staycation". Go to that national park that's nearby that you've never explored. Have a picnic. Rent kayaks. Go to a show. Remind yourself what's great about the area in which you live.
For more green tourism options, see Australia's Best Eco-Friendly Holidays.

www.kensbigbackyard.com.au

  

 

Rocky Creek Canyon

Rocky Creek Canyon

One of the easiest and most popular Blue Mountains canyons is now even easier to access.

Steam rises from canyoners in Rocky Creek Canyon

There are plenty of absolutely stunning canyons in the Blue Mountains of NSW – places where millions of years have carved deep, polished slots in the sandstone, where ferns dapple the available light, and water is so untarnished you can drink it from the pools beneath your feet. Often using ropes, canyoners descend into these gorgeous spaces, squeezing, swimming and squelching through the terrain, following creeks wherever they lead – through underground caves, chambers and steep-sided valleys.
A few canyons are relatively easy, such as the classic one down the Wollangambe River via Mt Wilson, which is really just a fun day out on a lilo. Others require a lot of experience and rope skills to even attempt.
Rocky Creek Canyon fits into the first category. There are no abseils, navigation is pretty easy, and the canyon is one of the few that you can do in reverse (if water levels are not too high), making navigation even easier.

Like all canyoning, it is worth remembering the risks. If in any doubt about incoming rain or storms, do not enter the canyon. Be prepared to be very cold, even if you have wetsuits, and always carry warm and dry clothing and emergency gear (preferably in a dry bag).

Getting to Rocky Creek

The Zig Zag Railway carpark is near the western end of Bells Line of Road, about 10km from Lithgow. It's a good enough place to meet, with the last toilet available.
Follow the dirt road out to the Newnes Plateau, turning right at the first intersection onto Galah Mountain Road. You will basically follow that road all the way out to the end. It veers right a couple of times, and wanders through pine forest, native forest and over a couple of graded ditches and humps.
However, perhaps because of road grading during the recent fires, the road is in really, really good condition at the moment, and you should have no problem getting any sedan in there (my low-slung Camry made it with just one clunk on the undercarriage).

Walk in

Towering coachwood

The last section of road goes steeply downhill to a small carpark. On weekends it may be crowded in the carpark. There is an information sign, and an obvious track heads downhill. Follow this almost to the bottom, and then take a major fork that goes off to the right. This track will wind sharply down to a gorgeous patch of rainforest at the base of the cliff, with towering coachwood trees and tree ferns. The little footpad then continues on the other side of the creek, winding up slightly and along the creek. Keep following it, until you reach a rock platform with a 3m waterfall off to the left, and another creek coming in from the right. This is the start of the canyon proper and the best place to don wetsuits.

Walk in through rainforest

Canyon

The start of the canyon, with climb-down through a hole on the left of frame

The brave or foolhardy can jump the waterfall, but there are hidden rock ledges, so it is NOT advised. Instead, there is a fun clamber down a hole to the right, and a rope is currently in place to help. From there the canyon involves some short swims, walks and wades, with a gorgeous narrow ampitheatre of rock above. There are yabbies and ferns, and moments when single shafts of light shine on individual rocks way below. There are also a couple of longer swims, particularly towards the end, and a lovely little jump in of a couple of metres. Unlike many canyons, the walking is relatively easy, with a minimum of really slippery odd-shaped rocks.

Finish

Be prepared, if anyone is really cold, or if rain is looking likely, to take the exit about a kilometre downstream from the canyon, when the creek does a hairpin bend to the right. It involves a mildly scary rock scramble up a 30m cliff, then a wander up the ridge and along back to the car park. You should have the topo map, compass and the ability to find this route. However, most people warm up for a little while in any sunny spot they can find outside the canyon (good place for lunch) then return back through the canyon, and it's even more fun going against the current.

Extras
Some people do a higher canyon called Sheep dip, and then go into Rocky Creek from there.

Note

I shot all my images on this trip on iPhone for the first time, discovering that they are pretty useless in low light - all the exposures were too long to handhold clearly. Apologies for the photos on this blog. However, Ian Brown was with us shooting for our feature on Wollemi National Park to appear in Australian Geographic, and his photos are stunning. Keep an eye out for the feature.

www.kensbigbackyard.com.au

Top 5 Summer Walks in NSW

Top 5 summer walks in NSW

As the curtains open on what is likely to be another hot summer, don't put away the walking shoes. Here are some brilliant cool options in NSW, with waterholes, views, rainforests and isolated beaches.

Boulder hopping across the Snowy River

Mt Kossie via Blue Lake

The Snowy Mountains are brilliant in summer, particularly early in the season when the wildflowers are prolific and snowdrifts still blanket the ground in places. The alpine tarns, lakes and creeks are wonderfully refreshing if you feel inclined to cool off, and the air is often crisp in the mornings. Take care with sun protection though, as you have a higher risk of burning.
There are many brilliant walks to do in the Snowies over summer, but one of the best is to the highest point on mainland Australia via the splendrous Blue Lake. It's a 22km loop walk from Charlottes Pass (note, NOT from Thredbo), and will take you over glorious mountains, past tarns and across the headwaters of the Snowy River.

Angourie Coastal Walk

Yuraygir Coastal Walk, Angourie

This cracker of a walk is part of the four-day Yuraygir Coastal Walk along wonderfully undeveloped coast in northern NSW. Those keen to have a night out under the stars can sleep at the turnaround point of Shelley Head, where there is a campsite with no facilities - just a glorious beach that you'll have to yourselves at the ends of the day.
The recommended 12km return walk starts at Angourie, and heads down Back Beach, around the lovely Woody Bluff, over Dirrangan Lookout with views down the coast, then along Little Shelley Beach. Plenty of places to dive in for a dip, although obviously in unpatrolled areas. Wildlife, wildflowers, wilderness: this has it all.

Minnamurra Rainforest

Minnamurra Falls

When you ask people their favourite walk in NSW (as I often do) one of the most consistent answers is "Minnamurra Rainforest". On a well-defined path, suitable for wheelchairs along some of the way, this South Coast walk, less than two hours from Sydney, wanders through some lovely rainforest, with plenty of signs that point out fauna and flora, such as giant stinging trees, figs, beech, red cedar and coachwood. Get there early and you're bound to see lyrebirds.
The easy loop is just 1.6km, but make sure you do the excellent extension to Minnamurra Falls, which takes the total to a mere 4km stroll.

Mount Gower, Lord Howe Island

Guide Jack Shick, photo courtesy LHI Tourism

Almost as close to paradise as you can get this side of heaven, Lord Howe Island is a World Heritage listed wonderland. Not only does it have gorgeous coral reefs, with turtles and tropical fish galore, not only does it have thick green palm forests to plunge through, with more birds than you could poke a walking stick at, but it has brilliant bushwalks, including the solid 875m climb up Mt Gower. This exciting 10km walk can only be done with a guide, but either of the current guides are brilliant, and you won't regret paying for their services at all over the 9-hour day. In a couple of precarious places you'll even need to hang onto a rope. Simply awesome views over one of the most perfect islands in the world, mist forest and rare species, including the Lord Howe Island woodhen.
Plus, there are plenty of beaches awaiting you when you descend.

Bungonia Gorge

Now how nice is that? Swimming hole, Bungonia Gorge

Perhaps an odd choice, but the waterholes in the bottom of the gorge are some of the nicest I've found anywhere for a swim. Yes, you will get hot on the climb on the way out again, so my advice is to take a nice lunch and spend as much time down the bottom as possible. To find the waterholes, take the white track from David Reid Lookout all the way down to the Shoalhaven River, then head up the gorge.
This is not a walk for the faint-hearted, as the walk down is steep and slippery, and you will need some navigation skills as there is no track up the gorge. My recommendation to get back to the carpark is to follow the gorge until you see the red track marker on the left hand side, and take it back up the hill for a 7km loop. Be warned though, you could miss the red marker, so take care.


For complete track notes, photos and more information on all these walks, please see my book, Top walks in NSW. There is a cheaper e-version to download onto iPads etc.

See you on the track.
www.kensbigbackyard.com.au

Margaret River is overrated

Margaret River is overrated

One of the best-known areas of Western Australia, Margaret River is  disappointing compared to some of the state's other great treasures.

Little Beach, Two People's Bay: not Margaret River

Let me start by clearly stating that Margaret River has some good things. It has some truly exceptional wines. It has some big waves. And it has a great dairy.
But its reputation as one of the great destinations of WA is out of all proportion to what it offers. When I recently went to south-west WA for an assignment, most east-coasters who I spoke to said, "oh, Margaret River?" (And no, I wasn't going there.) It seems that almost anyone from this side of the country who goes to Australia's largest state for a holiday goes to either the Kimberley or Margaret River. It is not only well known, it is almost revered.
There are several reasons for this. It is close to Perth, so the people who get panicky after driving more than an hour out of a capital city don't get too stressed. Or lost. And WA has enough open spaces to get truly lost if you want to.
Secondly, unlike most other areas of WA, Margaret River received a huge injection of capital by rich city investors. Many of the vineyards and other enterprises in Margaret River were established by powerful people with plenty of money to spend on advertising and marketing, and those who were adept at ensuring that government tourism messages encouraged more and more visitors to go to Margaret River. Like almost everyone, government tourism offices have limited capital, and often have to push certain barrows while leaving others to sit relatively unnoticed at the bottom of the garden, only ever seen by the adventurous.
Thirdly, and directly related to the point above, east coasters are generally bereft of knowledge when it comes to anything over the sandstone curtain. If I say I'm going to south-west WA, Margaret River is almost the only place many have heard about in the region.
Yes, it has good wines, but gone are the days when Margaret River was pretty much the only place to get a decent bottle of plonk in the state. Drive a few hours down the road towards Mount Barker, Frankland River or the Porongorups and you'll see what I mean - a quarter of the state's vines are down there, and there are more multi-award winning wineries than you could wave an empty bottle of riesling at.

Some of the oldest shiraz vines in the south west at Jingalla Wines in the Porongorups. Not Margaret River.

If it's beaches you're after, well WA is littered with them. A few years ago Lonely Planet voted one gorgeous little strip of sand, called Little Beach, in Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve, as one of the top 10 beaches in the world. But all the southern coastline is spectacular, from Cape Naturaliste through to Esperance and beyond, with lichen-splattered granite boulders, gleaming white sand and water the colour you think only exists in brochures. Along the southern coastline, whales and their calves often cruise just metres from shore (visit Point Ann in the botanical wonderland of Fitzgerald River National Park during winter if you don't believe me) and there is a huge mix of sheltered spots and places with wild waves.

The spectacular, subalpine peaks of Stirling Range National Park. Not Margaret River.

If it's scenery you're after, then Margaret River will probably disappoint. Yes, it is pretty, in a Hunter Valley, NSW, sort of way, but it isn't spectacular. And yet south-west WA is full of the spectacular. Try Stirling Range National Park or the gorgeous forests around Denmark, the wild and windswept Cape Leeuwin area, or head north to the Pinnacles in Nambung National Park. Further afield there is the Nullarbor, Kalbarri National Park or the extraordinary red-earth country around Mount Augustus.
My recent trip to the Great Southern Region, the area centred around Albany in south-west WA, reminded me that WA holds so many treasures within its vast sheets of land and crumpled folds, and it disturbs me that some people travel no further than Margaret River.
By all means go there, but just don't stop. Take an extra week or six and get out beyond there to see some more of what WA has to offer.
For more information on the Great Southern Region, look out for my feature in an upcoming issue of OUTBACK magazine.
www.kensbigbackyard.com.au

Baby's Feet Cave

Baby's Feet Cave

An extraordinary unmarked Aboriginal art site near Rylstone, NSW.

Some of the hand stencils at Baby's Feet Cave

In my wide travels across our ancient land, I've been blessed with so many incredible encounters with the oldest surviving living culture on the planet. I compare the pride with which most New Zealanders now hold their Maori culture, with the mixed disdain that so many Aussies seem to have for our much older Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander cultures, and shake my head. I even remember having a strange discussion with a visitor from England, who lamented the fact that Australia was bereft of any cultural tradition. I pointed out we actually have the oldest surviving living culture in the world, dating back an estimated 40-60,000 years, and she dismissed it as "oh yes, but there's nothing to show for that is there?"

Although Aboriginal sites are found pretty much everywhere, occasionally I am introduced to a site that  just oozes "special place". Whether it's the spiritual connection of land and spirit, the echoing footsteps across tens of thousands of years, or just an awe-inspiring feeling from my own psyche, I don't know, but this feeling of awe doesn't happen with many of the more "mundane" sites that I visit.

Places where this sense of stepping through the gateway of time, into a sort of cross spiritual/physical realm, include a spot I was choppered into on the border of Arnhem Land and Kakadu, where art works filled caves, and an ancient Aboriginal skeleton was tucked up in the corner of one cave. I've also been taken to a secret men's initiation site north of the Nullarbor Plain in South Australia. A condition of going there was no photographs and not to write about it, but I can say the eons of men who have left their mark there provides for a haunting and deeply spiritual experience.

Although my experience last weekend doesn't quite compare to these, I did come across a place that had that sense of awe about it. It's locally called Baby's Feet Cave, and is a five-minute walk off the Bylong Valley Way, between Rylstone and Bylong. It is unmarked, and the visitors information centre at Mudgee seems to know nothing of it, even though school groups used to go there.

Getting there

The bird-shaped boulder, Baby's Feet Cave

It's about 15km north of Rylstone, NSW, in a locality called Growee Gulf, opposite the northern end of Ferntree Gully Environmental Reserve. Bylong Valley Road swings downhill around a corner (to the right, if heading north) and a large blue sign saying "Fireplace" on the left hand side marks a fireplace, small picnic table, and room for one or two cars to park. A 4WD track heads away from the fireplace, but turns to a walking track within about 50m. Take this track down into the little gully, past the prickly Bursaria spinosa plants and up the other side. Where the track forks, head left to the extraordinary bird-head shaped boulder.

What's there

Up high on the right side of the rock, you'll see dozens of hand stencils. (NOTE: not hand 'prints', which are found throughout the world, but hand stencils, which are a much rarer form of indigenous art created by blowing an ochre or pigment over a placed hand.) Some are very clear, and others appear much, much older.

Most of these hand stencils are up way too high for the current ground level. 

Are they so old that the ground has eroded away that much since they were painted? Or were ladders or scaffolds or human pyramids used to get them so high? 

I was reminded of some paintings I saw up really high near Ubirr Rock in Kakadu National Park, and when I asked about them was told by my Aboriginal guide, perhaps tongue in cheek, "oh, the spirits painted them".

The spot takes its English name from two little baby's feet, placed higher up than all the other stencils, and way out of reach of even the tallest person. They are an aberration, but a delightful one.

The baby's feet, alongside a hand stencil high on the wall.

There is a visitors book dating back more than a decade.

Nearby, the vast wilderness of Wollemi National Park, holds hordes of such cultural treasures, most undocumented and many undiscovered in living memory and requiring multi-day off-track treks to find, but I found the location of this very special place - just five minutes from the road - so beautifully surprising.

Visit it, but as always please be sensitive and protect this very special Wiradjuri site.

www.kensbigbackyard.com.au

Special thanks to former Wollemi National Park ranger Chris Pavich who showed me the spot.

The best and worst of Sydney camping

The best and worst of Sydney camping

 Big 4 Sydney Lakeside Caravan Park, Narrabeen

Having just finished a pretty poor camping experience in Sydney, I fear that large, treeless caravan parks, with wall to wall canvas and motorhomes squeezed between too many cars, are many people's idea of camping. No wonder so many people say "oh, camping isn't for me". I guess they've had too many bad experiences - perhaps as kids forced on family holidays where they were jammed beside smelly neighbours with a penchant for revving their car/boat/motorbike engine at all hours.
Don't give up! There are still some great camping experiences to be had in Sydney.

Big4 Sydney Lakeside Caravan Park, Narrabeen

There were a few surprising things about Sydney Lakeside Caravan Park Big 4 this weekend. One was its sheer size. It has 260 camping sites, plus cabins, meaning around 1000 people. And even though we were out of school holidays, it was almost full. The small bit of grass in front of the photo above was quickly filled, and everywhere there were cars, tents and motorhomes, with little to no shade (so it must bake in summer). The amenities blocks, though quite large and relatively clean, are a long way apart, and in our case the closest was closed, meaning a five-minute walk to the dunnies.
Best thing: Narrabeen Lake, great for paddling, adjoins the park, and the surf beach and beautiful Narrabeen ocean pools are about 10 minutes walk away.
Worst thing: Lack of shade. Wall to wall tents. Public transport into town is difficult. No fires. Overall, "bleh".

Lane Cove River Tourist Park

Exploring Lane Cove National Park

Maybe I'm biased, because this is one of my local patches of bush, but I love this little hidden gem. It's not actually on the river however - that's a 10 minute walk away down the hill. Still, it's a quiet spot (some would say deathly quiet, as there is a cemetery next door), with a train station a 10-minute walk away and it takes less than 30 mins to get to the city centre. Great cycling, walking, picnicking and birdwatching through the park.
Best thing: amazing to stay this close to Sydney CBD in a quiet national park.
Worst thing: the river isn't recommended for swimming or fishing unfortunately, but you can hire boats, bikes, pedal boats and kayaks at the Lane Cove Boatshed. 

The Basin Campground, Ku-ring-gai National Park

The Basin, Ku-ring-gai National Park

A purler of a spot, this can only be accessed by ferry or taxi from Palm Beach Wharf, or by walking in the 3km from West Head Road (carrying all your stuff. It's downhill, but remember that means uphill on the way back.) There is room for about 400 campers, with a few communal firepits. The site offers delightful swimming, snorkelling, bushwalks and exploring the bush, and you'll probably encounter a range of wild animals, including goannas, wallabies, carpet pythons and lyrebirds.
Best thing: the location. It really is a beautiful spot.
Worst thing: not great if you are hoping to sight-see in Sydney, as you are a long way from anywhere. Large school groups sometimes use the area.

Cockatoo Island, Sydney Harbour

For first-time campers in Sydney, I don't think you can beat this experience. In the middle of Sydney Harbour, so only accessed by ferry or water taxi, this campsite has one of the greatest views of Sydney you can wake up to. There is space for your own tents, but if you are going just for a night, I'd recommend paying a bit extra and using the tents that are already set up, with chairs, torches, beds and everything provided. There are gas barbecues to cook on, and you can wander the historic island at will.
Best thing: early morning or late at night, being right on Sydney Harbour
Worst thing: nowhere to swim or hire kayaks. Also the most expensive option.

What are your best and worst camping options in and around Sydney? Let me know!

www.kensbigbackyard.com.au