New Zealand's 'hidden' skifield

New Zealand's 'hidden' skifield

New Zealand's largest downhill skiable area is nowhere near Queenstown. It isn't even on the South Island. It's on the North Island. And most Australians don't seem to know it's there.

Turoa skifield on Mt Ruapehu

Mt Ruapehu on New Zealand's North Island

In the middle of New Zealand's North Island, in a national park called Tongariro, is the awesome spectacle of Mt Ruapehu, an occasionally active volcano that is the highest point in the North Island, reaching nearly 2800m above sea level. Ski areas are found on three sides of the same mountain. Whakapapa (pronounced with an "f" for the "wh") is the largest ski field in all of New Zealand and found on the north side of the mountain. Turoa, which holds a superb skiable area, is on the southern side. A little club area called Tukino is on the eastern side.

According to a ski-hire bloke in the village of National Park, the only reason Queenstown, on the South Island gets nearly all the Aussie skiers is because of marketing. And after I saw what was on offer earlier this season, I've realised he might be right. This is a superb mountain, and all the better for the fact that fewer people know of it.

Getting there

Tongariro National Park is a couple of hours drive from Rotorua (with direct flights now from Sydney). It takes four hours from either Wellington or Auckland, and there are plenty of flights in there.

Where to stay

Although my experience on this trip wasn't wide, I do have a brilliant recommendation: Parkview Apartments in the little, quiet village of National Park. These modern, cosy 2-bedroom apartments have a warming gas fire and huge windows overlooking the snowy peaks. There are only two in the complex, so they are quiet (and can link if you have a larger group), and only about 20 minutes' drive from Whakapapa and less than an hour from Turoa, giving you a great option every morning. It also wasn't hugely expensive, costing about $NZ125 a night for the four of us. 

Parkview Apartments

Other choices: 

Whakapapa Village has a variety of accommodation, but you can't walk to the chairlifts: it's still a drive up the mountain. The range is great though, from the Whakapapa Holiday Village to the absolutely divinely placed, historic Chateau Tongariro. (Hint: even if you're not staying in the Chateau, it's worth splurging on a high tea inside it, looking out through huge windows past the golf course to the distinctive volcano that most of us now know as Mt Doom.) 

Ohakune is much closer to Turoa, but still at the base of the mountain. It is more of a vibrant, skiers' party town than the sleepy National Park village.

Whakapapa

Happy Valley at Whakapapa

With the better reputation as a ski resort, Whakapapa promises a lot, but it didn't live up to its reputation early in the 2013 season. Staff were incompetent, surly and disorganised. Prices weren't up anywhere and it seemed to take ages to get gear sorted, even though the crowds were thin at best. Hopefully that improves during the season. The beginners area of Happy Valley is a great place to learn - wide enough and gentle enough to ski and snowboard safely around all the other learners. 

Glimpses of Mt Doom (Mt Ngaurahoe) from the chairlifts

Higher up the mountain, chairs give views over Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom) and there are runs to suit every level of skier, up to double black diamonds. Teachers, as everywhere, can be a lottery, but generally are friendly, helpful and professional.

Turoa   

Halfway up the Turoa skifield

This was not only a beautiful-looking area in which to ski, but the staff were friendly, efficient and keen to see us make the most of the day. Because Turoa is on the southern slopes of Mt Ruapehu, it is colder and the snow is usually better than Whakapapa. (You can easily compare snow cover here.) The beginners area isn't great, being much smaller than Happy Valley, but for intermediate skiers it seems much, much better. Both Whakapapa and Turoa have 8 lifts, and the two right near the start of the resort quickly distribute skiers up the mountain. 

Turoa chairlift

Overall assessment

I have skied in several different countries, including many of the Australian resorts, and have skied and snowboarded in the resorts around Queenstown, New Zealand. 

I think North Island New Zealand should definitely be on any Aussie skier's list. It is relatively close and accessible, and relatively inexpensive. The skiing is excellent (even early in the season there were testing runs open at Turoa) and varied. And most of all, it is such a stunning environment that even if you are just there to have a few runs and then enjoy the views from the cafes, you will still love it. 

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