Sunday, 29 September 2013

Go camp in a swamp

Go camp in a swamp

"Go camp in a swamp" is perhaps not the encouragement you'd want to hear for a weekend away, but Dunns Swamp (or Ganguddy), on the edge of Wollemi National Park, is a camping spot with it all.


Kookaburra Beach, Dunns Swamp


 Wollemi National Park, part of the Greater Blue Mountains World Heritage Area, is the second largest national park in NSW (after Kozzie). Most of it is a dark and impenetrable wilderness area, with a tangled web of gorges and sandstone cliffs. Exploring the fringes of this wild green canvas can give you a wonderful taste of this very special place.
Ganguddy, or Dunns Swamp, is one such place. It's near Rylstone, north of Lithgow, and about a 3.5-hour drive from my place in Sydney, so a bit further than most Sydneysiders could be bothered going. Which is a good thing! The camping area is vast, with separate spots for campers and trailers, and plenty of little nooks for smaller tents to squeeze in. The bulk of the sites are away from the water, but there are a few closer to the water.
One of the areas near the water, Dunns Swamp. Short walk from the car

School holidays it does get busy - particularly the Christmas holidays - so go out of those times if possible.
There are no showers or tap water, but the pit toilets have recently been upgraded, and are cleaned regularly.
There are quite a few fire pits and wood-fired barbecues. Some firewood is supplied, but if you really want a fire (e.g, last weekend, even in September, it got down to 3 degrees), make sure you bring your own.

What's there

Pagoda Lookout, Ganguddy

Smack in "pagoda country", the area has a 3d maze of rounded sandstone features, with mini canyons and squeezes, and rock faces to climb on and explore. Adventurous teenagers will adore just being allowed to roam, finding little caves and climbs and tracks. 
It is not a place for helicopter parents!
The area has a long Wiradjuri history, and there are plenty of handprints and other markings etched on the walls.
Unlike almost everywhere else in the national park, there is a vast, cool body of water, which was formed when the Cudgegong River was dammed in the 1920s. The dam has extensive reed beds on the sides, and rich wildlife, including musk ducks, kingfishers and more than 100 other bird species, wombats, black snakes, eastern long-necked turtles, platypus and eastern grey kangaroos.

The water is great for swimming, paddling and some quiet fishing, supposedly for golden perch, Murray cod and catfish, but I didn't see anyone being particularly successful when I was there recently.
During school holidays, and one week either side, Southern Cross Kayaking rent single and double kayaks. There's a lovely paddle downstream to the weir and back for about an hour, past sheer sandstone walls, or paddling the other way, you can wind your way through reed beds and upstream through interesting country rich in wildlife for another hour. A double kayak costs $40 for an hour.
There are a few short walks (up to about 5km), and they're all quite different, and quite lovely. Don't miss the one up to the Pagoda Lookout, with great views over the water. The "Beehive Pagoda" is the small one directly across from Kookaburra Beach, and it's quicker and more fun just to swim across to it.   

Tips

Bring a lilo, blow-up boat, or something to float on
Bring climbing shoes for some great bouldering. You could even bring a rope for some short rock climbs or abseils.
Some easy mountain biking is available on the tracks and dirt roads.
Bring plenty of drinking water.

It is not too far from Sydney to go for a weekend, or even just one night, but you will want to get there by lunchtime on the first day.




Sunday, 22 September 2013

Marathon madness: story of a first (and last?) time marathoner

Marathon madness: story of a first (and last?) time marathoner

Written after the 2013 Blackmores Sydney marathon, when I can barely hobble from one room to the next




After Pheidippides ran the first marathon, just to deliver his one word message ("Nike", or "Victory"), he fell over and died. People seem to forget this crucial part of the story. His countrymen thought "what a great idea –- let's turn that into a race" and so the marathon was born. In the first modern Olympics the event had only nine finishers, and eight were Greeks.
Now of course, there are thousands of marathons every year across the world (more than 700 this year in North America alone) and most of the podia are graced by those with African heritage. In Sydney yesterday, the Blackmores marathon was won by an Ethiopian woman and a Kenyan man.

But while the elite have their race, the rest of us, particularly those on our first marathon, are in our own battle. Perhaps a race against the clock we have set for ourselves, but more a battle against the dark, negative forces deep within us, that beg us to lie down and stop, and question why we thought we could do this anyway.

Anyone can run a marathon  

One of my favourite magazines in the world is the US's OUTSIDE magazine, (it has the tagline "live bravely")  and a few years ago I found an article that I've dubbed "marathon running for the time poor". It was actually titled "Yes, you can run the New York City marathon", but the premise was this: if you have general fitness, it doesn't take that much more training to do a marathon. The emphasis was on a lot of cross-training to help protect your legs, joints, knees, and every other part of the anatomy that is damaged by long-distance running. It recommended six exercise sessions a week, three of which should be running. But what caught me was that the distances, on the whole, weren't that big (and, listed in miles, they seemed even shorter). In short, my short runs (then 30-45 mins) needed to jump up to about an hour, and my long runs (then 60-75 mins) needed to increase to about 1.5 hours. Not a big ask at all, or imposition of time. And about four weeks before the race, you need to do a very big run (about 32km). It looked achievable and manageable in a busy work/life schedule, particularly when I worked out I could run 12km each way to and from my part-time work .
I tried a couple of times to get ready for a marathon, but did my Achilles one year (those Greeks featuring again) and then got quite ill with a lung infection another year. This time, this year, however, I felt ready to go, so enrolled about five weeks before the event.
After all, I really enjoyed a half marathon a couple of years ago, and a full marathon must be twice as fun, right?

The start  

The strangest thing in training is the last couple of weeks, and particularly the last week, when you "taper off" your running. The theory is to give your legs a break before the big day, but it feels weird after doing a lot of kilometres in the weeks leading up to the event, to suddenly be running a maximum of 6km.
Still, we arrived at a way-too-early time of the morning (tip to future marathon event planners - what about an event for us night owls? i.e, one that starts at about 8pm?) under the Harbour Bridge for the tight Sydney circuit. I sort of wish I had a chance to do the Sydney Olympic marathon course from the year 2000, as it covered a lot of ground, finishing in Homebush - you'd actually feel like you had run a long way. But I guess too many roads have to be closed for that course, so instead the Blackmores course has a lot of doubling back in and around Sydney, picking up such Sydney icons as Lady Macquaries Chair, St Marys Cathedral, Hyde Park, Oxford St, Sydney Football Stadium, Centennial Park, Randwick Racecourse, Harbour Bridge, the Rocks, Darling Harbour, Circular Quay and the Opera House.
So we stood at the start line, and a woman next to me had goose bumps in the cool air.
One runner gave me a great summary before we started. "A marathon is like a 20-mile warm up to a six-mile race." Another told me about two years ago when the temperature topped 30°C, and the last six kays was covered in technicoloured vomit, and sprawled runners receiving attention that you had to step over if you wanted to finish. It didn't bode well. He said simply: "the first 35km is fun".
I asked one nearby runner, who was starting his ninth marathon, if he had any advice. "Don't go out too fast."

What's it like?

I hadn't expected to be so emotional. At the 10km mark, as a woman passed her husband and young child, calling "go mummy, go mummy, we're proud of you" I held back a little tear. At the 25km mark, an older man, perhaps Russian, was given drinks, food and encouragement by his wife, and I found that moving too. 
Surprisingly, although I have been running in my race shoes for weeks, I started to feel a blister on one toe at the 12km mark, it grew bigger than the toe itself, but didn't pop. A piece of gravel got stuck to my shoe on the Harbour Bridge and it bugged me for the next 10km as I could hear it "click, click, click on the bitumen". At 15km my right knee was hurting way more than it should have, and at one point my right leg completely gave way, but somehow I didn't plummet to the ground. But 10km later I couldn't feel my right knee anymore, and had other issues. Still, my time was going really well – better than expected, and I was still running ahead of the 3.15 time marker (these poor guys run the whole race with a stick taped to their back and a time on it). They slipped past me though when I stopped for a quick toilet break in Centennial Park.
Because I struggle to drink from an open cup while running (all my training was with bottles, not open cups) I decided before the race to stop at selected drink stations, walk for 30 seconds, and have two cups, then start running again. I figured it was more important to keep the fluid intake than to save the extra seconds. What I didn't bargain on was that each time it became harder and harder to start running again. By the end it was agony to go from a walk to a run and took me about a minute to convince myself to do it.
After the 20km mark, we were offered Gu gels at some drink stations. These are highly concentrated bursts of sugar, in a suckable gel form. It's a bit like drinking cordial straight. I had trained with them a couple of times, and knew that the flavour was really important (some are quite foul). After my first gel, an espresso flavoured one, I nearly threw up - could feel the gag reflex, and just held it in. I took a second gel 7km later and almost threw up again. I gave up on them after that.
Up to 33km, my time was very good and the pain was manageable. After that, it became a slog. They used to talk about "The wall" when marathon runners would run out of carbohydrates in their body, and so in order to fuel the activity, the body starts breaking down proteins, fats or anything else – sort of destroying itself in order to keep going. At this point your brain says "this is really dumb, it's killing you, you should stop now". No one talks about this much anymore, because Gu gels etc are meant to stop it, but I definitely felt it. It wasn't just the pain - by now my thighs were solid knots and my calves on fire - it was the very strong voice in the head. "Just stop. Lie down. Give up. Look, that guy there has. Those people will give you medical attention. You've done enough. C'mon, this isn't fun anymore." I guess it's the ability, or the stubbornness, to override those thoughts that makes any great achievement great.
My aim in those last 9 kilometres was to get to 3km from the end. I knew that if necessary, I could walk the last 3km home. But then, in some sort of delirious haze, 3km became 2, and 2 became 1. I stopped at the last drink station, and looked at my watch. If I could do the last 1km in 9 minutes, I'd make it it under 3.5 hours - which was the best time I was hoping for. As I'd started the race at 4 minutes a kilometre, I thought "c'mon, even you can do that now."
Pretty much every runner was overtaking me now, as I hobbled and shuffled my way to the finish. Others seemed to be sprinting, and I wondered where they found the energy. 
As I ran over the line, I cried, surprisingly. And a woman, old enough to be my mother, was standing there to give me a medal. "Perhaps I'll come to you," she said kindly, realising I could barely go another step.
I sat in the shade and cried again. I really don't know why. 
42.195 km
3 hours 28 minutes

www.kensbigbackyard.com.au


Sunday, 15 September 2013

Is this your next car?

Is this your next car?

Why I'm excited about a car race for the first time in years.

Sunswift eVe

For the first time in many years, I'm excited about a car race. And a car. Probably not since the days of the legendary Peter Brock, and the days when as a pubescent boy I had posters of Porsches on my walls, have I cared one iota about car races. Or cars.
Through my journalistic work on science and sustainability over many years, I've followed (without a lot of passion) solar car racing, and in particular the World Solar Challenge - a 3000km road race from Darwin to Adelaide, using only the power of the sun. The image of the founder of Australian Geographic, Dick Smith, squeezing into a ridiculous looking vehicle, with a tiny cabin beneath a huge flat solar array, is burned into my memory.
As the race has gone on, every two years, it has received less and less publicity, and interest in these bizarre-shaped vehicles has waned. Who could possibly imagine themselves squeezing themselves, the kids and the shopping in these weird three-wheel contraptions that at one stage were notoriously likely to roll over at corners or not be able to stop?
This year, the event, which will be held 6-13 October, has a whole new class of vehicle: Cruiser Class. Among other requirements, the vehicles must have four wheels and be able to carry a passenger.
Enter the team of hardworking, innovative students at UNSW, with their Sunswift eVe car. Although the UNSW team have dominated the main solar car racing class for many years now, with an exceptional record with solar cells and mechanical engineering, the team decided to start from scratch and design a brand new car. And this is what I really love - they wanted a car that would excite the public again, and energise the discussion about solar and electric vehicles.
“We want a sports car that will turn heads, that people will want to drive,” says project manager and engineering student, Sam Paterson. "It’s written in our concept design document… it should turn heads, make people want to drive it and be car-shaped.”
Built from carbon fibre, based on the design of supercars, and as light as four blokes, the sports car has 4 square metres of solar panels across the bonnet and roof in a sleek design. It has "proper" controls inside so that anyone should be able to get into it and drive it. Expected to reach top speeds on the track of about 140km/h, it also has a range of about 600km.
Many of the objections many people have to the "solar-powered future" of transport, or even the electrification of cars, have been solved with this design. With an extra battery on board, it could go from Sydney to Melbourne without stopping. It looks great, can be plugged in for a top up of power at any stage, and could just be the way of the future - particularly as Sam and the team are going to try to legally register the vehicle for normal road use after the race. 
Keep an eye out for Sunswift's eVe and the other cars racing in the Cruiser Class this year. One of them just may be your next car.

One of many UNSW volunteer students working 15-hour days to complete the vehicle in time.
    
  

Sunday, 8 September 2013

Confessions of a mad runner

Confessions of a mad runner

In a week's time, Tom Denniss, 50, will officially become the first person to run around the world. 


Tom Denniss, around-the-world runner


After running more than a marathon every day for almost two years, Tom will finish his jog of almost 30,000km in Sydney next weekend, becoming the first person officially recognised by the Guinness World Records to have completed the task.
Before he set out, Tom worked out with Guinness World Records what the criteria would be: it had to be at least 18,000 miles, travelling in the same direction (he travelled easterly) and he had to pass antipodal points on the globe. Flights or other transport between countries was permitted, as long as these criteria were met.
I interviewed Tom at his North Ryde office, in Sydney, not long before he set out on his mission. Even though he was training a lot, he surprised me by having only a small lunch ("it's easier to run big distances if I don't weigh too much"), and by the fact that he is not, and has never considered himself, a particularly strong athlete. The founder and chief technology officer of Oceanlinx, a company developing wave-powered electricity generators, he is actually a little bit 'nerdy' in some ways. For example, I asked him if he ever had spiritual experiences while running such long distances on his own, and he said no - instead he spends his time puzzling over great mathematical and scientific conundrums. “The unanswered questions about quantum physics.”
Even though he is a professional musician, he doesn't listen to music as he runs. 
Tom has been raising money for Oxfam, but that isn't why he runs or why he took on this huge goal. He got the idea a couple of years ago, when he ran from Sydney to Melbourne to raise money for charity. “That got the hunger up to step out and do something more substantial. I’ve never previously done anything I didn’t know I could finish.” Tom thought about running around Australia, “but that had been done a few times already, so I did some research with Guinness World Records and they said no one had achieved a circumnavigation of the world on foot to their satisfaction. I know I’m not going to get any faster, so I may as well go longer.”

Ball strike

Tom changed his running stride from a heel strike, to a ball-of-the-foot strike, which he said slowed him down, but means that he can just keep going and going. Rather than taking one day a week "off" he told me he was planning to "only" do about 15km rather than 50km on one day a week. But looking at his distances each day, he's certainly done more than that.
Tom's brilliant achievement raises the same question that all of us long-distance runners need to answer on some level. Why do we run? My first ever marathon is in two weeks, and at age 44, I'm only slightly older than the average age for a first marathon.
Why do I want to push my body that hard? After all, marathon distances are known to be detrimental to the body, and for me, anything over about 15km seems to be an exercise in triage and pain management. 
I love the fact that I can still set myself a tough goal and work towards achieving it. Life throws so many curly things at us, it's empowering somehow to pick a goal, and work towards it. I know that when I did the half marathon a couple of years ago, I beamed and lived off the high of that for days. The first time I complete a 42.195km run will be on race day. Will I make it? Wow, I hope so.

Avagoyamug
We are so blessed in this country to have so many opportunities to try our hands at different things: to "avagoyamug", and yet I see the majority of people my own age stuck in ruts, seemingly unable to do more than just "exist". I don't think we were created just to "exist" but to have "life in all its fullness".
I also find that because I have a lot of nervous energy, if I don't exercise most days, I get pretty agitated. Running somehow is cleansing for me. I often come back and scribble on a notepad six or seven ideas for stories or things I need to chase. I find a lot of the time I run, I go over conversations that I've had, processing ways I could have done things better - ways in which I can be a better person. 
And I think I run because I can. What a joy, what a privilege, to run through bush, or parks, or even urban streets, and noticing little, uneventful things: a woman with a bandaged hand, a girl swinging in a tree, a black swan with five signets. In some little way it reminds me of the stuff of real life: the every day things become extraordinary again, and life's meaning perhaps a little clearer, through the magnifying haze of sweat.
Congratulations Tom on your outstanding achievement. I will be happy with my own achievement, I hope, in two weeks, of finishing my first ever marathon.