Go camp in a swamp

Go camp in a swamp

"Go camp in a swamp" is perhaps not the encouragement you'd want to hear for a weekend away, but Dunns Swamp (or Ganguddy), on the edge of Wollemi National Park, is a camping spot with it all.

Kookaburra Beach, Dunns Swamp

 Wollemi National Park, part of the Greater Blue Mountains World Heritage Area, is the second largest national park in NSW (after Kozzie). Most of it is a dark and impenetrable wilderness area, with a tangled web of gorges and sandstone cliffs. Exploring the fringes of this wild green canvas can give you a wonderful taste of this very special place.

Ganguddy, or Dunns Swamp, is one such place. It's near Rylstone, north of Lithgow, and about a 3.5-hour drive from my place in Sydney, so a bit further than most Sydneysiders could be bothered going. Which is a good thing! The camping area is vast, with separate spots for campers and trailers, and plenty of little nooks for smaller tents to squeeze in. The bulk of the sites are away from the water, but there are a few closer to the water.

One of the areas near the water, Dunns Swamp. Short walk from the car

School holidays it does get busy - particularly the Christmas holidays - so go out of those times if possible.

There are no showers or tap water, but the pit toilets have recently been upgraded, and are cleaned regularly.

There are quite a few fire pits and wood-fired barbecues. Some firewood is supplied, but if you really want a fire (e.g, last weekend, even in September, it got down to 3 degrees), make sure you bring your own.

What's there

Pagoda Lookout, Ganguddy

Smack in "pagoda country", the area has a 3d maze of rounded sandstone features, with mini canyons and squeezes, and rock faces to climb on and explore. Adventurous teenagers will adore just being allowed to roam, finding little caves and climbs and tracks. 

It is not a place for helicopter parents!

The area has a long Wiradjuri history, and there are plenty of handprints and other markings etched on the walls.

Unlike almost everywhere else in the national park, there is a vast, cool body of water, which was formed when the Cudgegong River was dammed in the 1920s. The dam has extensive reed beds on the sides, and rich wildlife, including musk ducks, kingfishers and more than 100 other bird species, wombats, black snakes, eastern long-necked turtles, platypus and eastern grey kangaroos.

The water is great for swimming, paddling and some quiet fishing, supposedly for golden perch, Murray cod and catfish, but I didn't see anyone being particularly successful when I was there recently.

During school holidays, and one week either side, Southern Cross Kayaking rent single and double kayaks. There's a lovely paddle downstream to the weir and back for about an hour, past sheer sandstone walls, or paddling the other way, you can wind your way through reed beds and upstream through interesting country rich in wildlife for another hour. A double kayak costs $40 for an hour.

There are a few short walks (up to about 5km), and they're all quite different, and quite lovely. Don't miss the one up to the Pagoda Lookout, with great views over the water. The "Beehive Pagoda" is the small one directly across from Kookaburra Beach, and it's quicker and more fun just to swim across to it.   

Tips

Bring a lilo, blow-up boat, or something to float on

Bring climbing shoes for some great bouldering. You could even bring a rope for some short rock climbs or abseils.

Some easy mountain biking is available on the tracks and dirt roads.

Bring plenty of drinking water.

It is not too far from Sydney to go for a weekend, or even just one night, but you will want to get there by lunchtime on the first day.