Resignation, Mt Arapiles

Resignation, Mt Arapiles

It's estimated there are 3000 climbing routes up Mt Arapiles, in western Victoria, so it can be mighty hard to choose. Resignation is a three-star, multipitch route at a cracking grade 15, with great exposure, a wonderful belay ledge and a surprisingly committing little overhang.

The glorious belay ledge halfway up, on Resignation, Mt Arapiles

 Why call such a great climb 'Resignation? Is it that you need to "resign yourself" to just going for the committing moves up the overhang? Or is it that this climb is so unreal that you'll immediately write out your resignation letter, and move to Natimuk to become a full-time climber?
For those few climbers not in the know, the mecca of Australian climbing, renowned worldwide, is a place called Mt Arapiles in far western Victoria. Yes, it's even more renowned than Taipan Wall in the Grampians. The reasons are varied, as it was explained to me recently when I was there writing a story for OUTBACK magazine. Firstly, there are some 3000 routes, secondly, they're all within a fairly short walk of the campground, thirdly, the rock is gorgeously pleasant quartzitic sandstone, so bullet-hard, but friendly on the fingers, fourthly, it provides lots of nooks and crannies to place protective gear (not too many bolts here) and most importantly, its easy climbs are absolute classics. As one climber said to me "Elsewhere in the world the easy climbs are boring... but not here!"
And so we come to Resignation. In the guidebook it's quite reasonably recorded as a four-pitch climb, but we did it in two, using a 60m rope. The guidebook has this wonderful description too:

"The third pitch is quite sensational – it climbs an exposed, run-out and overhanging wall that feels more like grade 23."

There isn't much to add to the excellent guidebook description, although the end of our first pitch (the guidebook's second pitch) is theoretically 13, but requires a bit of thought and courage near the end to get to the superb belay ledge. The ledge sticks right out over the cliff, and is almost big enough to put out a picnic rug if you are so inclined.

Small overhang section, Resignation, Mt Arapiles

The overhang bit is just a few moves past the great belay ledge. You traverse right, try finding a few spots to place some gear, then "take a deep breath ... and motor up the overhanging wall". There aren't many spots to place gear up the steep wall until the top of the little section.
The last part of the climb drops back to a grade 12, although there's still a couple of moves to keep you on your toes.
Then the descent is great fun too, with a scrambling traverse, a squeeze through Ali Babas Cave and then either down holding the chains, or abseiling off (particularly with the 60m rope, which just reaches the bottom).

Descent route

Arapiles is about to boom again at Easter, with the annual Goat Fest, but there are so many classic climbs at Arap to choose from. But this was certainly a great morning out for me. 
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8 of the best waterholes

8 of the best waterholes

It's not too cold yet to go and find some of these rippers of waterholes to plunge in, swim in or even skinny-dip in if you're game. 

Probably my favourite swimming hole in NSW, in Bungonia Gorge

I was recently asked by a reader of my blogs to come up with a list of great swimming holes within a couple of hours' drive of Sydney. There are so many out there, so I don't pretend this is an extensive list - just some of my favourites. Please feel free to add your own via the comments at the bottom. But also, some of the best waterholes are those that you stumble upon, and actually aren't that keen to divulge to others - they're part of a whole bush experience.
Still, this little list should provide some fun to those partial to a soak in the wilds. Be warned that some waterholes are probably quite polluted immediately after small amounts of rain.

1. Kariong Falls, Central Coast

Kariong Falls, Central Coast

Water cascades into a deep pool with a sandy bank. The pool is hemmed in on two sides by a large sandstone overhang, with a red hand stencil high on the wall. You can walk to Kariong Falls via the delightful little Wondabyne Railway Station or Woy Woy Bay. Track notes are in my book, Top Walks in NSW.

2. Gibberagong Waterholes, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park

A delightful little surprise in a fairly untrodden part of this national park, Gibberagong Waterholes are high up Cockle Creek, and a fairly easy walk in from the end of Grosvenor Street in North Wahroonga.  Last time I went there they were so cold I could only stay in for seconds, so be prepared to warm up on the walk out.

3. Upper Gledhill Falls, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park

Over the past decade, I've had so many great experiences at this waterhole, as it is the waterhole commonly visited by campers at Camp Kedron. One favourite memory was about 100 leaders and campers crammed in there after a massive food fight that we'd had at camp. Found at the sharp bend in the road a couple of hundred metres up McCarrs Creek Road from The Duckhole, it has room for a couple of cars to park beside the road, or others can park at The Duckhole and walk up. Jumping in off the cliffs is not advised as the bottom has several large boulders that can't be seen. If you have the time, walk down the creek, past The Duckhole, to the much more impressive Lower Gledhill Falls.

4. Jellybean Pool, Blue Mountains National Park

Just a five-minute walk from the car, this is one of the best, easily accessible swimming holes in the Blue Mountains. Of course, that can make it really popular on hot weekends. It's right near the Glenbrook entrance to Blue Mountains National Park, and suitable for little kids and families.

5. Empress Falls, Blue Mountains National Park

Canyoners reach this deep, big waterhole, by abseiling 30 m down Empress Falls, which is truly a great experience and highly recommended. But walkers can also get there simply by walking down the popular Valley of the Waters walk from Conservation Hut. It is a steep walk down, and when you walk back up you'll wish you were back in the water. There are some good spots to jump in from (keep an eye out for ropes and abseilers from above), and the bottom is sandy.

6. Figure 8 pools, Royal National Park

The delightful Figure 8 pools, Royal National Park

The only saltwater pools that I've included, these are just so delightful that they are worthy of inclusion. Only accessible about two hours either side of low tide, they are found on the rock platform two headlands south of Burning Palms Beach, which means a bit of a hike however you come in. They're not so much swimming holes as beautiful plunge pools, although it could be interesting to stay a while with a mask. A wonderful treasure that most people miss in this very popular park.

7. Bungonia Gorge, Bungonia National Park

I think my absolute favourite swimming hole in NSW is in this gorge, but there is no direct track there.  Track notes again are in my book Top Walks in NSW. Best route is probably via the steep and slippery White Track to the bottom of the gorge, then follow the gorge upstream until you find it. There are a few lovely waterholes on the way, but one is just superb and you'll probably only share it with a few thirsty wallabies. Give yourself plenty of time to walk out.

8. Wollondilly River Station, Southern Highlands

Gorgeous emerald waterhole at Wollondilly River Station

At one end of the main camping area is this little emerald-coloured waterhole. It's a bit rocky on the feet, and can be freezing, but it is truly a beautiful little spot for a dip.

Five top Aussie autumn walks

Five top Aussie autumn walks 

I adore all the seasons for different reasons, but autumn has a special place in my sense of wellbeing, with its cool nights and variable days, and its fungi, fruits and golden nothofagus. It's a great time to get out walking across the country.

It's a great time to get out there, exploring. Ken Eastwood on Mt Jagungal walk.

Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness... oh if only I'd appreciated Keats' poetry when I was forced to study it at school. Of course the change in the Aussie bush at autumn isn't nearly as dramatic as it is in much of the world. I remember living for almost two years in New England, USA, where the change is so spectacularly dramatic as leaves turn golden and vibrant reds, oranges and pinks.
Most of the time in Australia we don't get those colours, except where there is an abundance of introduced trees and a cooler climate. In the Blue Mountains, NSW, try the beautiful Mt Wilson area, or the botanic gardens at Mt Tomah.
Still, it's a cracking great season to be out and about. The ocean water is still relatively warm, so you can have a swim , but the days are generally cooler than through summer, and the nights begin to become wonderfully refreshing (making it better for camping). Also, in the Top End and the Kimberley, it's the end of the Wet season, so many walking areas begin to open up again, and it's one of the best times to be up there, with the bold colours, full waterholes and rejuvenated vegetation.
There are boundless brilliant walks, but here are five to get you thinking.

1. Dove Lake, Cradle Mountain–Lake St Clair NP, Tas.

One of Australia's few plant species that makes a dramatic change over autumn is the nothofagus, with its tiny leaves turning gold and red, making places such as the hills around Dove Lake come alive in colour. Walks here vary from relatively easy strolls of an hour or so up to multi day adventures along the Overland Track. Highly recommended is the full day walk up Cradle Mountain, and then along to Twisted Lakes.

2. Mt Jagungal, Mt Kosciuszko National Park, NSW

Mt Jagungal ... moody and starkly beautiful.

A ripper at anytime of year (including the middle of winter when it is covered in snow), this two-day hike takes you across open alpine plains, across rivers, through alpine forest, and up way above the treeline to the top of this iconic mountain that gives you an epic 360-degree view. There are plenty of ways up and down it, but in my book, Top Walks in NSW, I describe one of the easiest routes, staying in the excellent huts along the way. It's still a trek, and a great adventure.

3. Piccaninny Creek, Purnululu National Park, WA

The Wet is over and the colours in this extraordinary park are absolutely spectacular. The brightly striped orange and black Bungle Bungle formations have masses of bright yellow wattle at their base, the spinifex is surprisingly bright green, the sky a vivid blue, and the waterholes reflect it all. Most of the walks in Purnululu National Park are short walks of an hour or so, but you are free to explore this gorge for as many days as you like. I recommend at least two nights to get a feel of the remoteness and the exceptional beauty of this World Heritage listed treasure.

4. Mt Grenfell Historic Site, NSW

Mt Grenfell Historic Site ... hundreds of individual art works

As weather cools down, inland areas once again become more pleasant to travel to, particularly for those not used to the sometimes harsh conditions. Mt Grenfell Historic Site, about 70km out of Cobar, is one of the exceptional cultural treasures in the state – probably the densest area of Aboriginal art. Three separate galleries have layer upon layer of art works, and you could spend hours just contemplating the history and ambience of this special spot. There is a choice of a short, 15-minute walk from the car park, or a 5km loop.  

5. Walk over some politicians, ACT

There are few places in the world where you can tromp all over the roof of the federal parliament, and Australia's parliament has lush lawns in which to do so. And let's face it, there's something pleasurable about walking over the heads of politicians. Canberra itself is a walkers' paradise in autumn, with plenty of great options: around the lake, the Australian National Botanic Gardens or in the vast wild areas of Namadgi National Park, which may even get snow on its higher peaks.

Go on... you know you want to. www.kensbigbackyard.com.au