Resignation, Mt Arapiles

Resignation, Mt Arapiles

It's estimated there are 3000 climbing routes up Mt Arapiles, in western Victoria, so it can be mighty hard to choose. Resignation is a three-star, multipitch route at a cracking grade 15, with great exposure, a wonderful belay ledge and a surprisingly committing little overhang.

The glorious belay ledge halfway up, on Resignation, Mt Arapiles

 Why call such a great climb 'Resignation? Is it that you need to "resign yourself" to just going for the committing moves up the overhang? Or is it that this climb is so unreal that you'll immediately write out your resignation letter, and move to Natimuk to become a full-time climber?
For those few climbers not in the know, the mecca of Australian climbing, renowned worldwide, is a place called Mt Arapiles in far western Victoria. Yes, it's even more renowned than Taipan Wall in the Grampians. The reasons are varied, as it was explained to me recently when I was there writing a story for OUTBACK magazine. Firstly, there are some 3000 routes, secondly, they're all within a fairly short walk of the campground, thirdly, the rock is gorgeously pleasant quartzitic sandstone, so bullet-hard, but friendly on the fingers, fourthly, it provides lots of nooks and crannies to place protective gear (not too many bolts here) and most importantly, its easy climbs are absolute classics. As one climber said to me "Elsewhere in the world the easy climbs are boring... but not here!"
And so we come to Resignation. In the guidebook it's quite reasonably recorded as a four-pitch climb, but we did it in two, using a 60m rope. The guidebook has this wonderful description too:

"The third pitch is quite sensational – it climbs an exposed, run-out and overhanging wall that feels more like grade 23."

There isn't much to add to the excellent guidebook description, although the end of our first pitch (the guidebook's second pitch) is theoretically 13, but requires a bit of thought and courage near the end to get to the superb belay ledge. The ledge sticks right out over the cliff, and is almost big enough to put out a picnic rug if you are so inclined.

Small overhang section, Resignation, Mt Arapiles

The overhang bit is just a few moves past the great belay ledge. You traverse right, try finding a few spots to place some gear, then "take a deep breath ... and motor up the overhanging wall". There aren't many spots to place gear up the steep wall until the top of the little section.
The last part of the climb drops back to a grade 12, although there's still a couple of moves to keep you on your toes.
Then the descent is great fun too, with a scrambling traverse, a squeeze through Ali Babas Cave and then either down holding the chains, or abseiling off (particularly with the 60m rope, which just reaches the bottom).

Descent route

Arapiles is about to boom again at Easter, with the annual Goat Fest, but there are so many classic climbs at Arap to choose from. But this was certainly a great morning out for me. 
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