Easy rock climbs around Sydney

Easy rock climbs around Sydney

Some recommended outdoor rock climbs for beginners or those with creaky knees

Ken Eastwood feeling "Hope" (grade 15), Mt Piddington.

I get such a buzz out of rock-climbing. Particularly lead-climbing. There are very few other moments in life when I am completely "in the moment", focused totally on every move, on every dimple in the rock, on the kiss of the sun on my skin or the breeze at my back.
I also love sharing the joy of rock-climbing, and end up taking out a lot of people new to the sport, or those who want to get out of the climbing gym and try the outdoors.
I suspect there are many people in and around Sydney who have struggled, as I have, to find great areas to take beginners. Also, the reality is that as approach a half century, and don't spend nearly enough time on rock, that I will increasingly need to find easier spots to climb myself.
Unlike some other cities, we don't have that many superb, easy places to climb. Brisbane is so well set up with Kangaroo Point. It's lit up at night, so you can climb in the evenings, and has excellent fixed protection at the top so it is easy to set up top ropes.
After almost 20 years of outdoor climbing, I reckon good areas for beginners (or those who want an easy day out at the rock) have reasonably easy top-rope set ups, aren't overly steep (not past the vertical), and have at least some holds with big, chunky holds, so that everyone can get up at least one climb. These are surprisingly hard to come by.
Once climbers have experience, particularly in lead-climbing with a natural protection rack, the Blue Mountains becomes an obvious choice, because there are just so many climbs up there, and hundreds upon hundreds at easier grades – some of which are superb adventures. Heck, the very first climb in the brilliant guidebook Blue Mountains Climbing is a superb four-star, 150m epic called Tom Thumb, at a very achievable grade 13. However, I think it is ridiculous to think that beginners with no experience would or should attempt that. Some time needs to be spent learning a few techniques and moves, and getting comfortable on rock first.
So, the following isn't by any means an extensive list (and favours the north side), but it shows some of the spots I have enjoyed fairly stress-free times out at a cliff. Please let me know your faves too, and I hope to see you out there sometime.

Lindfield Rocks

A classic bouldering area (meaning an area usually climbed without ropes), this can work quite well for beginners, particularly kids. It's relatively easy to set up top ropes, and if you choose your climbs carefully, most beginners should be able to get up a couple of routes. One of the problems with it as a bouldering area, is that it is high enough to be quite dangerous if you fall, and some of the landings are awful. However, it isn't really high enough for most climbers to be on rope (climbs are only about 6-8m long at best), but certainly works as a beginners spot. (Park at tennis courts at Lindfield Oval, and take the walking track for about 5 mins.)

Barrenjoey

The stupendous view over the isthmus, halfway up a climb at Barrenjoey.

Probably not for absolute beginners, but this is such an absolutely classic, gorgeous spot that it is definitely worth the drive up to Palm Beach. Hike along the bayside beach then bash along the bush for a few minutes and up to the cliffs. One of the best areas for beginners is the first area you come to on the south-west side, and you can spend a fun day poking around on climbs such as Millie, Carrie Bradshaw, Starboard Barnacles, Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket and Crack of Dawn. The views back along the isthmus are glorious. It will greatly help if someone in the group is confident leading sport climbs at grade 14, in order to get to the top. Afterwards, you get to swim at one of Sydney's best beaches, and can even do some easy and fun bouldering on the sand at the big boulders half way along the beach. 

Berowra

A little higher than the previous two spots, this can be a bit of a struggle for beginners, as grade 16 or 17 is often too hard for them. But there are lots and lots of climbs, you can set up top ropes fairly easily and if people are willing to have a go, you can still have a great day out here. It's also lovely and warm on winter arvos! Kenneth's climb (no, not named after me unfortunately, but after a lovely skink that used to live in the crack) is a challenging grade 14. Drive to the end of Wideview Road in Berowra, head left to the cliff and don't fall off.

The Stables

Hidden up in Pennant Hills, this is a surprisingly good little area in some lovely forest. Good for summer, as it's quite shady and protected. Best recommendations are getting to Storm Wall and doing climbs such as Clipz, Yoink, and Carrots are Vegetables if you're up to some jamming. Find it at the end of Schofield Parade, Pennant Hills and then follow the instructions in the online guide.

Suicide slabs (now called Brooklyn)

A bit of a run-out lead, so take care, but this big slab is in a glorious spot beside the boat ramp at Brooklyn. Exhibitionists will like it, as you usually get a bit of an audience. There's a two-star grade 15, and a couple of 14s, but easy to slide across and try a couple of slightly harder ones on top rope.

The Block, Medlow Bath

If you're up to heading into the Blue Mountains, it can be difficult to know where to start. So many gorgeous areas and climbs. This is a wonderful little spot, and if you study the guidebook and wander around a bit, you can find a host of climbs here. One of my regular climbing partners did her first lead climb here, a 22m long ripper called Manana, with a difficult finish. It's just around the corner from The Block, which has a mix of roots including the very nice line of Ole Biscuit Barrel (grade 14).

Mount Piddington, Mt Victoria

Top of Mt Piddington - glorious views.

With more than 200 routes here, there is plenty to keep you occupied at virtually any level of climbing. The bulk of it requires natural protection though, so not so great for those without access to a natural protection rig (placing cams, nuts, hexes and wires to protect you from a fall, rather than relying on pre-drilled bolts placed by someone else). Still, it's probably one of the best places around Sydney to learn to lead on a natural protection, because there are so many lower-grade climbs. The great unwashed, at Grade 10, is a fun, unusual climb with a great mix of moves. I had a bit of an epic recently on Chicken Hearted (grade 13), and have enjoyed playing on climbs such as Faith (an excellent three-star grade 8 with the ability to set up top ropes on chains to tackle some of the surrounding climbs), Hope, Chastity and Sincerity. Always scope here to take a break and admire the climbers attacking harder leads such as the five-star classic The Eternity (grade 18).

Please remember that climbing, like all outdoor sports, has inherent risks, and if you do not know what you are doing, you should join a club, befriend someone experienced, or pay for some training. Having said that, I maintain that statistically you are far more likely to get injured or killed driving or cycling to a climbing site or crossing the road than you are actually at the site.

Do you have other recommended areas that are great for beginners in and around Sydney? Please let me know!
www.kensbigbackyard.com.au